| SPECIAL PAMPHLET |
No. 4 |
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CHICKS
BROODING AND REARING
The brooding and rearing of chicks is a comparatively simple matter, but to be
successful, vigilance and attention to details is required. Brooding may be of two types,
natural and artificial. Much of the success of either system depends on having chicks that
are properly hatched from healthy, vigorous parents. |
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COLONY HOUSE USED AS BROODER
Adaptable colony
house 10 feet by 12 feet with coal-stove brooder accomodating 200 to 300 chicks
comfortably. Used as laying-house in winter for 25 hens. Roosts and other internal
equipment are removable.
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Published by Authority of Hon. J.G. Gardiner, Minister of Agriculture, Ottawa, 1940
35M-3486-12:39 |
Natural Method of Brooding
After the chicks have hatched, let the hen
remain quietly on the nest until the chicks get so lively that they insist on leaving it;
then remove the hen and her brood to a coop that has been prepared for her. Early in the
season, before the ground is dry, use bottoms in the coops, with chaff or sand to cover
the floor. Later the coops may be placed on the ground provided the location is dry, and
each day moved the width of themselves. This saves a lot of work and at the same time
ensures clean, wholesome conditions. All coops should be thoroughly disinfected before
each season, and also between broods. The A-shaped coop shown in this circular has much to
recommend it. It is simple in construction and may be of odds and ends of lumber that
might otherwise be wasted. |
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If A-shaped coops
are used it will be necessary to move the chicks to a colony or roosting house as soon as
they pass the brooding age.
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| The number of
chicks that a hen can take of depends largely on the season. In midsummer she may
successfully brood as many as twenty-five, but in the earlier part of the year half that
number will result in much better success. The two great dangers in brooding with hens are
chill and vermin. A hen should be given no more chicks than she can keep comfortably warm.
Hens that have been properly handled during the hatching will come to their brooding
duties free from vermin, but is advisable to dust them at regular intervals to ensure a
continuance of that condition. |
Artificial Methods of Brooding
There are many systems of artificial
brooding in use such as the battery, the hot water pipe system and electric, gas, oil,
coal and wood burning heaters. For general farm conditions the coal burning stove placed
in a colony house has up to the present proved most popular. When a steady supply of
electricity and a well insulated housed is available this method of brooding is most
convenient and economical of labour. Batteries are convenient and are used to a
considerable extent for starting chicks and also for raising them to broiler age.
A spare room in any well-built outbuilding
or poultry house may be used for brooding but in such case the quarters should be
thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before use and all connection broken with the old stock
so as to avoid infection that may be present in the mature stock being transmitted to the
chicks.
The safest method to follow is the use of
portable colony houses which may be moved from time to time as needed to assure the chicks
are having fresh uncontaminated ground cover over which to run.
A colony house 10 by 12 feet will
comfortably accommodate from 200 to 300 chicks, but care should be taken to see that there
is always sufficient hopper space supplied. A safe estimate is 1 inch of feeding space for
each chick, and as the chicks grow, the space should be increased accordingly. |
Preparing for the Chicks
On the floor, in the centre of the house,
place a tin mat or a sufficient number of bricks on their side flat to stand the stove on.
Then place a guard of 1- by 4-inch lumber, stood on edge round this, leaving about a foot
clearance all round the stove. Inside the guard fill in with sand, thus avoiding danger of
fire from the stove. On the rest of the floor, litter should be placed to the depth of one
or two inches. Planer shavings have been found excellent for this purpose, but chaff or
even gravel is often used. Where shavings or chaff are used the attendant should see that
the surface of the sand around the stove is kept free from litter.
Four pieces of galvanized iron or stiff wire
mesh about 3 feet long by 18 inches high are used to round the corners of the house to
prevent crowding.
Wire netting covered frames 2 or 3 inches
high and about 4 feet long are placed on the litter on the floor on which are set water
fountains and mash hoppers. This raises them sufficiently high to prevent the litter from
being scratched into them.
Hoppers of chick-size grit, oyster shell and
charcoal are hung at a convenient height on the walls or placed on the wire frames.
For the first few days a guard made of
either square mesh, stiff wire cloth or galvinized iron about a foot high is used to
circle the stove until the chicks get used to the source of heat. Each day this circle is
enlarged until finally the guard is removed entirely. Care should be taken to make the
enclosed circle sufficiently large so that the chicks are not kept too close the source of
heat.
A chick should be kept as cool as may be for
comfort, but it should always have a source of heat where it may go to rest in a
temperature of about 100º. No thermometer, however, is as good an indicator as the chicks
themselves. Their actions will tell at once whether they are comfortable or not. If
comfortable, they will rest in a circle just outside the canopy of the stove; if not warm
enough they will indicate by their discontented chirping and crowding of the heat source;
if too hot they will get as far away from the stove as possible or go around with the
mouths open panting for breath.
The length of the brooding period usually
runs for four to eight weeks depending largely on the weather. The temperature should be
gradually lowered as the comfort of the chicks will permit. Give the chicks an abundance
of fresh air.
Roosts on frames covered with wire mesh to
prevent the chicks coming in contact with the droppings should be installed when the
chicks are three to four weeks old so as to encourage early roosting. These should be
placed on the slope, the back part of the frames a foot or more above the floor and the
front of the frames resting on the floor so that the chicks will take to them more
readily. When the chicks get accustomed to them the frames may be raised in front so that
the roosts will be on the level as in the laying houses.
When the chicks are old enough to do without
heat, the stoves should be removed and the sexes separated. Cockerels to be retained for
the selection of breeders should be put in separate runs in range roosting coops; those
for broilers put in more or less confined quarters and fed a finishing ration. The pullets
should remain in the brooder houses until they require more room, when a sufficient number
may be taken out and placed in roosting coops to assure the balance being not overcrowded. |
Feeding the Chicks
When the house has been made ready, the
fountains filled with water from which the chill has been removed, the hoppers filled with
grit, shell, charcoal and dry mash and a little coarse river sand, chick grit or fine
oyster shell scattered over the surface of the mash in the hoppers, the chicks are put in
the house spread in a circle on the floor just outside the canopy and they are well
started. Feeding is allowed right from the start and everything is practically automatic,
requiring very little time to attend to a colony. Tend the stoves regularly, seeing that
they are properly regulated. Keep the fountains filled with fresh water and the feed
hoppers with dry mash. Weather permitting, get the chicks out on the ground as soon as
they get used to their quarters, say by a week or ten days, and be sure the ground is
clean and uncontaminated. When this is done, a board about 3 feet long and 12 inches high
is placed about a foot back from the exit and another board from the top of this to the
wall above the exit. This forms a passage for the chicks to get to the exit and prevents
the winds from blowing in the opening and directly under the hover.
If the weather is bad so that the chicks
have to be kept to the house, a few clean sods to tear at, will keep them busy; in the
absence of these a mangel or a sheaf of alfalfa should be supplied. |
Chick Mash
Most of the commercial chick starters are
satisfactory but care should be taken to see that they do not contain too high a
percentage of fibre.
A starter mash made according to the
following formula will give excellent results. Ground yellow corn 25 lb; ground oat groats
20 lb; wheat middlings 20 lb.; wheat shorts 20 lb.; dehydrated alfalfa leaf meal 5 lb;
fish meal (70% protein) 5 lb; meat meal (60% protein) 2 lb; buttermilk or skim-milk powder
2 lb; bone meal 1 lb. To each 100 lb. of the above mixture add ½ lb. of fine common salt
and 1 lb. of cod liver oil.
If biologically tested cod liver oil is
available it should be used according to the manufacturers directions. When dehydrated
alfalfa leaf meal cannot be obtained double the quantity of alfalfa leaf meal should be
used, in which case the ground yellow corn may be reduced by 5 lb. In districts where corn
is not readily obtainable or unduly high in price wheat may be used to replace it.
Where either skim-milk or buttermilk is
available the milk powder is omitted and if either fishmeal or meat meal is difficult to
obtain or high in price its replacement by the other will not greatly interfere with the
results.
At about eight weeks of age a small quantity
of scratch grain mixture is fed, increasing the amount gradually until the chickens are on
free range when they are hopper fed and will eat whatever they desire.
If the birds are on a good green range, the
dehydrated alfalfa leaf meal of the mash may be replaced by wheat bran and the cod liver
oil omitted. It is probably preferable in most cases, however, to rely on the increase in
the amount of grain fed to adjust the ration to the reduced requirements of the rearing
period.
If home-grown grains are available they may be
ground and used to advantage at this time. The rate of sexual development is largely
dependent on the amount of animal feed supplied. When pullets are developing too rapidly,
increase the percentage of whole grain fed and the tendency will be to grow frame rather
than to hasten sexual maturity.
An ideal range for chicks is a clover field
beside a corn field, or an orchard, where they can get all the succulent green feed they
can eat and still have shade as required. Given these conditions, once the chicks go upon
range they can be reared with very little labour, dependence being placed largely on
hopper-feeding.
Plans for colony houses, range shelters and
range hoppers may be obtained from the Poultry Division, Experimental Farm, Department of
Agriculture, Ottawa. |
POULTRY DIVISION - EXPERIMENTAL FARMS SERVICE
Dominion Department of Agriculture
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| Ottawa: Printed by
J. O. Patenaude, I.S.O., Printer to the King's Most Excellent Majesty, 1940. |
| This factsheet is produced as a historical document
describing how poultry flocks were managed in the 1940's. Not all practices described
would be recommended today (May, 2003). |
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